I did like this comment from the page mah posted a link to-
"In nearly all domestic systems, all film caps will be quite alright - there is no real need to insist on film and foil types unless there are very high currents involved. Metallised film caps will usually have more than sufficient current carrying ability for systems rated at up to a couple of hundred Watts, and often a lot more. Much has been made of the dielectric material, but this is generally wishful thinking, perpetuated by a fringe area of audio that insists that no reasonably priced component can ever sound any good. In many cases, you may pay the top price for polypropylene, but get polyester anyway, and few people know how to tell the difference between them."
I often see people spend incredible amounts of money on caps only to make glaring mistakes in other areas...in other words, gaining a few percent with top dog caps and losing back 20% by setting up the system badly...
If you spend more on crossover caps than your amp cost you may want to examine priorities...
It's a SYSTEM APPROACH that sounds best, many have a bunch of components that somewhat work together...and though many sound fine, could be bettered. Figure out the system's weak points and improve those FIRST...
Sorry thought it was Sunday, guess I gave the sermon early.
Your neighbors called. They like your music.
If I where to go to the trouble to build crossovers, it would be neat to have multiple taps with 800, 1000, and 1200Hz XO points. I think that I understand how to add caps through a juction box to get those values, but how about the inductors. And... what slope/db and everything else I have forgotten. I suppose by the end, I would have as much invested as in a good electronic XO and cheap amp for byamping, but I don't know anything.
there was an Altec unit with multiple corner frequencies...can't recall the model...
Your neighbors called. They like your music.
1285 XO... 1200, 800, 500 with switchable CD eq everyone should have a pair!Originally Posted by Old Guy
Go for it.
altec 1285 | eBay
Opinion is only as valid as its verifiable supporting evidence.
N1201-8A's works a charm, having used it in my A8's (clone cabinets) with 416-8B, 806-8 and 32B. Or a N1285-8 works but the 1200Hz XO freq. circuit may not be the same topology as that of the N1201 (aka M19).
Jon Archibald in Canada
Wonder how something like these would sound?
Rolls SX45 Stereo Two-Way Mini Crossover w/Sub Output
Rolls SX45 Stereo Two-Way Mini Crossover w/Sub Output 245-1184
Active XO will give you the best results. If you have two amps you can use, then an active XO like the DCX2496 will be the cat's meow. The room placement and treatment will make a big difference and an active XO can be tweaked as you improve the room acoustics.
OTOH, if you want to go with passive for budget reasons, you really should start with some measurements of your drivers...otherwise, you're just guessing and you essentially will need luck to get a good sound.
As far as that Rolls unit - avoid it. For about the same money you can get a much better unit like the Behringer CX2310, or go for the 2496 mentioned above with all the bells and whistles.
Last edited by Alien_Shore; January 13th, 2013 at 10:15 AM.
- Mike
Prolly OK
Prolly better:
Ashly SC 20 Electronic Crossover Made in USA | eBay
manual:
http://www.ashly.com/products/discon...ual%20DISC.pdf
Your neighbors called. They like your music.
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